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The balance and patience factors are much more critical in surfing than they are in snowboarding ... if you're out surfing serious waves and you wipe out, you don't land on soft snow. It's usually either very sharp coral, or you get raked across the beach gravel and sand while you're tumbling underwater.
FREDERICK LENZ, Snowboarding to Nirvana
Ultimately, thinking is a very inefficient method of processing data.
FREDERICK LENZ, Surfing the Himalayas
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