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One of the greatest things about the sport of surfing is that you need only three things: your body, a surf-board, and a wave.
NAIMA GREEN, Surfing: Rules, Tips, Strategy, and Safety
There's nothing quite like surfing by yourself in the middle of the Pacific Ocean, but unpredictable weather patterns, below deck accomodation, sea snakes, coral cuts and packs of reef sharks make it a trip for the committed seadog.
MARK THORNLEY, Surfing Australia
Surfing is very much like making love. It always feels good, no matter how many times you've done it.
PAUL STRAUCH, Leonard Lueras' Surfing Hawaii
Surfing, alone among sports, generates laughter at its very suggestion, and this is because it turns not a skill into an art, but an inexplicable and useless urge into a vital way of life.
MATT WARSHAW, Maverick's: The Story of Big-Wave Surfing
The balance and patience factors are much more critical in surfing than they are in snowboarding ... if you're out surfing serious waves and you wipe out, you don't land on soft snow. It's usually either very sharp coral, or you get raked across the beach gravel and sand while you're tumbling underwater.
FREDERICK LENZ, Snowboarding to Nirvana
Every now and then, we would hear reports through the grapevine of big-wave riders on the North Shore [of Oahu] drowning, and for the first time I began to understand why so many of the great California surfers never gave the North Shore a try, or if they did, they came back home and never tried it again.
MIKE DOYLE, Morning Glass
In surfing, coming to terms with death -- or at least the possibility -- is an ongoing crisis in big waves. The set is building outside, and it's so beautiful, aesthetically. People are watching in awe from the beach: the blue water, the stiff offshore winds, the 40-foot walls charging in from the open ocean. If you're out there with nothing but your body, your wits and a surfboard, that set can be your coffin.
BRUCE JENKINS, North Shore Chronicles
As for my own surfing, let's just say that when the waves start pushing 10 feet, I get this tremendous urge to make a sandwich.
BRUCE JENKINS, North Shore Chronicles
Surfing expresses ... a pure yearning for visceral, physical contact with the natural world.
MATT WARSHAW, Maverick's: The Story of Big-Wave Surfing
BRUCE JENKINS, North Shore Chronicles
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