quotations about surfing
If in doubt, paddle out.
NAT YOUNG, "The best surfing quotes of all time", Surfer Today
Let's go surfin' now
Everybody's learning how
Come on and safari with me
BEACH BOYS, "Surfin' Safari"
Surfing is a way to be free.
LISA ANDERSEN, Surfer Magazine, June 30, 2017
In a moment I might be under the wave swallowing seawater and small jellyfish, but right now I am an ancient princess of Hawaii, I am a bikini model, I am a goddess before the crest of a monster billow.
WILMA JOHNSON, Surf Mama: One Woman's Search for Love, Happiness, and the Perfect Wave
Waves are not measured in feet and inches, they are measured in increments of fear.
BUZZY TRENT, Surfer, March 1965
Truly, the waves are like women, for men watch them long and understand them but little.
UNKNOWN, Galaxy Science Fiction, Volume 19, Issue 4
The best surfer out there is the one having the most fun.
DUKE KAHANAMOKU, attributed, For Extreme-Sports Crazy Boys Only
There is nothing, nothing, more sad than a surfer who used to surf.
Surfing is very much like making love. It always feels good, no matter how many times you've done it.
PAUL STRAUCH, attributed, Surfing Hawaii
Surfing, alone among sports, generates laughter at its very suggestion, and this is because it turns not a skill into an art, but an inexplicable and useless urge into a vital way of life.
MATT WARSHAW, Maverick's: The Story of Big-Wave Surfing
Surfing is for life.
BRUCE JENKINS, North Shore Chronicles
Surfing is climbing from a warm bed in predawn's coolness, a sleepy drive, coffee and doughnuts at a roadside diner and the clatter of surfboards as they're unstacked from a car rack. Surfing is the joy of watching a sun rise slowly into the sky. It's crisp, clean waves, crests blown high by an offshore wind. It's gray mist, dampness and cold sand under bare feet, the lonely cry of a gull sweeping across silent, brooding seas. On a big day, surfing is a strong swell and waves that have lost their playfulness. Then it's stomach knots, high exultation, a trace of fear.
FRED WARDY, "Surfing Is", The Perfect Day: 40 Years of Surfer Magazine
You're done. Once you're a surfer, you're done. You're in. It's like the mob or something. You're not getting out.
KELLY SLATER, Step into Liquid
Some surfers won't surf during dusk or dawn in places known to have an active shark population. Many prefer to have a buddy with them while surfing, as being the only bait out at a surf point is just a little too creepy.
BETHANY HAMILTON, Soul Surfer: A True Story of Faith, Family and Fighting to Get Back on the Board
I thought how, with the peeling wave as an ideal of perfection, the surfer's object of passion becomes the very essence of ephemerality--not a thing to be owned or a goal to be attained but rather a fleeting state to inhabit. So much more of my time, after all, passed in the dreaming and searching than in the actual riding of waves; so much more time spent driving the coast and floating between sets. Of a whole year of devotion, probably no more than a day was spent truly on my feet and surfing, so I couldn't view such a moment as this without an ardent, frustrated desire, a near-religious craving for wholeness. Unlike so many other passions: while one might, I suppose, wish for a bloom to remain in blossom, for a ripening grape to hang always on the vine--yearnings John Keats made his own, for fleeting beauty and youth, the understandably hopeless hope that we might freeze our world's better moments--the wave's plenitude is rather in the peeling of the petal, the very motion of the falling fruit.
DANIEL DUANE, Caught Inside: A Surfer's Year on the California Coast
The problem with surfing and travel, as complementary explorations and succinct undertakings, remain the same. It's a quest which is not finite. So as hard as you try, as many places as you travel, and as many waves as you have the honor to feel beneath your heels, it will inevitably only deepen the desire to seek out more.
BETH FEHR, "How Surfing and Traveling Feed the Same Addiction", The Inertia, June 21, 2017
Surfing forces your insecurities--about your abilities and your body--out into the open where everyone can see them, but it also makes you come to terms with your imperfections. It's nearly impossible to care about cellulite or a wedgie when you're voluntarily putting yourself through what feels like the world's largest wash cycle.
VERENA VON PFETTEN, "I Survived A Terrible Surfing Accident--Here's What I Learned", Women's Health, June 19, 2017
Share more waves and enjoy the moment. We're all spinning way too fast.
LISA ANDERSEN, Surfer Magazine, June 30, 2017
you watch the boys go surfing
just shut your mind out for a while
you watch white brakers crash
on the palm-lined beach
an easy way of life
life by the ocean
now she turns on her charm
the way you like it
you make it all the time
and watch the sun go down
BEACH BOYS, "Eggstone"
One of the greatest things about the sport of surfing is that you need only three things: your body, a surf-board, and a wave.
NAIMA GREEN, Surfing: Rules, Tips, Strategy, and Safety